Every summer, each time my mother and I visit one of the quaint farmers’ markets in our local area, she unfailingly retrieves a pot upon our return to her home and begins simmering a simple syrup. Despite her failing eyesight, she navigates her bungalow effortlessly, not seeking any assistance from me. As I perch at the counter, savoring a peach, the sweet juice inevitably trickles down my chin.
“Mom, have a seat and enjoy a fresh peach. They’re unparalleled when fresh, don’t you think?” I offer, but she chuckles and continues her task. She blanches the fruit, mentioning that she only needs to set aside a few peaches for the winter. Although peaches are currently out of season in the depths of February, my resourceful mom unfailingly produces small packets of frozen peaches in syrup from her freezer each time we indulge in my sourdough waffles for breakfast.
Peaches lend themselves well to various culinary uses, including jams, chutneys, or even barbecue sauce.
The truth is, freezing peaches is a point of contention between my mother and me. While she opts for this method, I prefer not to. I hold vivid memories of relishing a flawless peach one morning at sunrise beneath the bluest sky in an orchard in the Similkameen Valley in southeastern B.C. I am unwilling to settle for anything less than perfection and am willing to exercise patience. On the other hand, my mother vividly recalls times of fruit scarcity during her childhood in the Depression era and is determined not to experience such deprivation again. I have chosen to embrace seasonal eating, whereas she has chosen to preserve summer fruits for the winter months. There exists no definitive right or wrong in our differing approaches; rather, our distinct life experiences and preferences have shaped our culinary perspectives.
Despite my personal inclinations, I, too, have preserved peaches for the winter, seeking ways to retain that exquisite summer essence even if the texture cannot be fully replicated. Like my mother, I have immersed peaches in jars of delicately seasoned syrup. Additionally, I have incorporated peaches into chutneys, jams, pickle brine, and most recently, barbecue sauce. I have relished fresh and canned peaches in an array of delectable creations such as cobbler, crisp, crêpes, pie, galette, clafouti, melba, as well as in sangria, muscat, prosecco, salads, grilled dishes, and accompanied by raspberry compote. Whether flambéed, served with ice cream, or poached in wine, peaches offer endless culinary possibilities. While I personally prefer my peaches in their natural, unembellished state, the reality of life on the Canadian Prairies necessitates embracing the offerings of orchardists who traverse the flatlands to showcase their fruits at our local farmers’ markets.
In the realm of food literature, peaches take center stage in the poignant book “Epitaph for a Peach” by David Mas Masumoto. A second-generation California peach cultivator, Masumoto recounts his efforts to preserve the heirloom Sun Crest peach trees on his family’s farm, shedding light on the challenges faced by small-scale sustainable farmers. Reading this narrative has deepened my appreciation for the perfect peach, prompting me to transform an abundance of fresh summer fruit into creations for February consumption. As a poet, I recognize peaches as a profound metaphor for life’s transience. Thus, after relishing our peaches in our preferred manner, we set aside additional jars in the pantry for later enjoyment.
Chutney serves as a delightful vehicle for peach flavor, whether as a garnish for roast meats, poultry, or grilled fish.
Lemon, Peach, and Ginger Chutney
This recipe is ideal for utilizing a jar of peaches languishing in the pantry, evoking memories of summer. Serve this zesty chutney as a spicy accompaniment to vegetable curries, grilled fish, or roasted meats. For a barbecue marinade, enhance the spice level with dried chilies and roughly puree the chutney after cooking.
Yields approximately 6 cups.
- 2 lemons, thinly sliced
- ¼ cup grated ginger root
- 1 tablespoon coriander seed
- 1 cinnamon stick, broken
- 1 whole star anise
- 2 cups light brown sugar
- 1 cup raisins or dried cranberries
- 2 cups apple cider vinegar
- 4 cups finely chopped canned peaches
- Salt and cayenne pepper to taste
Combine all ingredients, excluding the peaches, salt, and cayenne, in a sturdy pot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the chutney thickens, stirring frequently to prevent sticking. Add the peaches and simmer briefly. Transfer the chutney to a large glass jar and store it in the refrigerator.