Edward Thomas’s Work, “In Pursuit of Spring,” which was published over a century ago, remains a timeless gem in the collection of nature enthusiasts. It beautifully chronicles the poet’s expedition from London to Somerset in search of the first signs of the approaching season. Departing from a rainy Wandsworth in March 1913, Thomas expressed his yearning for apple blossoms, cuckoo flowers, the earth’s sunny fragrance, and the melodious nightingale’s song. He pondered anxiously whether the bees would soon replace the howling wind.
Thomas’s pursuit, resonating with many as we eagerly anticipate the sun’s warmth in March, highlights an intriguing notion – viewing spring as a “place.” While Thomas associated it with the rural south-west, for me, the essence of spring is encapsulated in Pembrokeshire.
Despite growing up in suburban London, akin to Thomas, my yearly visits to Pembrokeshire have been a constant in my life. With my roots tracing back to St Davids, the westernmost town in Wales where my grandfather served in the cathedral clergy, Pembrokeshire held a special place in my heart. Memories of exploring Whitesands and Caerfai beaches, wandering along headland trails, and admiring butterfly-dotted hedgerows evoke the scents of bracken and hawthorn blossoms.
As my passion for nature deepened over the years, evolving into a career as a gardener, landscape enthusiast, and travel writer, Pembrokeshire’s allure only grew stronger. Its rich tapestry of wildflowers, diverse bird species, and varied landscapes continues to draw me back, especially during the vibrant months of spring when life burgeons in every direction. Be it quick getaways from London, family camping escapades, or solitary retreats on its tranquil islands, Pembrokeshire always beckons me when I crave the rejuvenating spirit of spring.
For those enamored with Cornwall’s scenic beauty but unfamiliar with Wales’s pristine coastal charms, let me make a compelling case for Pembrokeshire. This predominantly rural county boasts Norman castles, Benedictine monasteries, ancient ruins, and a significant portion – approximately 237 square miles – that constitutes the striking Pembrokeshire Coast National Park. While it may not rival the dramatic landscapes of the Cairngorms or Dartmoor in size, it stands out as one of the most ecologically diverse national parks, as acclaimed by National Geographic in 2012, surpassing renowned destinations like Italy’s Cinque Terre and Hawaii’s Nā Pali coast.
Spanning from Amroth in the south to St Dogmaels near the Ceredigion border, the park showcases a remarkable geological spectrum, encompassing narrow headlands, limestone formations, secluded stacks, mist-shrouded islands, picturesque bays, and serene coves. Beyond its coastal allure, the park extends inland, embracing the Milford Haven Waterway, the pastoral Dale peninsula, and a section of the expansive Preseli Hills, offering a mosaic of habitats ranging from beaches and cliffs to estuaries, moorlands, and heathlands.
This diverse ecosystem sets the stage for spring’s unfolding drama, from the early sightings of brimstone butterflies and budding beech trees to the arrival of Atlantic puffins preparing to nest. Pembrokeshire’s landscape teems with life, creating a symphony of natural wonders.
Complementing its natural splendor are charming coastal towns like Newport, Tenby, and Solva, where the calls of curlews and sandpipers serenade visitors. With convenient transport options like the “Poppit Rocket” and “Puffin Shuttle,” exploring this naturalist’s paradise is not only delightful but also easily accessible.
My personal spring exploration of Pembrokeshire typically commences inland, and the time is ripe for such an adventure. While climate change has blurred seasonal boundaries across the UK, Pembrokeshire’s unique flora, such as the iconic Tenby daffodil – renowned as one of Britain’s native species – reliably heralds the arrival of spring. The vibrant trumpet-shaped flowers of these daffodils, emerging amidst glaucous blue-green leaves, signal the season’s onset, soon to be followed by a profusion of stitchworts, wood anemones, magnolias, and tulips.
Venturing south to Bosherston, where the air carries the sweet scent of gorse and the water lilies bloom anew, I anticipate sightings of otters and kingfishers along the secluded bay of Broad Haven South, where the stream meets the sea. Continuing to Newport, where the salt marshes await the harvest of samphire and the hillsides blush with pink-white scurvy grass, I revel in the burgeoning rosettes of foxgloves and sea campions near the Parrog headland.
Further south, amidst the blossoming hedgerows of St Davids adorned with celandines, the panoramic views of Pembrokeshire’s islands beckon. Of the prominent isles, Ramsey, Skomer, and Caldey, each harbors its unique marvels. Ramsey heralds spring with the return of guillemots and razorbills to their cliffside nests, accompanied by the distinctive calls of red-billed choughs and sightings of grey seals along the coast. Skomer, accessible via Martin’s Haven near Dale, boasts the world’s largest Manx shearwater colony and enchanting puffin burrows, creating a captivating spectacle amidst blooming bluebells and campions in early May.
Concluding my spring odyssey is the serene “holy island” of Caldey, home to a Cistercian monastery and a tranquil haven in Pembrokeshire. Crossing from Tenby harbor, a stroll through the sycamore wood, vibrant with new foliage, leads to the secluded coastline. Nestled by a shallow cave, where seabirds call over the gentle waves below, one can bask in the serenity of cowslip-dotted meadows and the reassuring presence of nesting oystercatchers, signaling the arrival of spring in its full splendor.