TEAHUPO’O, French Polynesia (AP) — Peva Levy expressed experiencing a potent, innate force referred to as “mana” while surfing the waves of Teahupo’o on a makeshift board initially, descending a deteriorating white surf in front of an unspoiled volcanic beach several years prior to the influx of surfers following the village’s introduction to its first asphalt road over fifty years ago.
Recalling the past, the surfer and Tahitian local reminisced, “It was a hidden gem.” Standing on the immaculate shores of Teahupo’o on the southern side of the island, with waves crashing in the distance, he added, “But it remained a hidden gem for only a limited time.”
Over time, Teahupo’o has gained global recognition among surfers, with its thunderous wave earning a reputation for its formidable power. This renowned wave will serve as the venue for the Paris Olympics surfing competition, slated from July 27 to Aug. 4.
As an overseas territory of France, the island in French Polynesia faces unprecedented challenges with the decision to host a segment of the Games here, impacting a small community deeply connected to a way of life intertwined with untamed landscapes and crystalline waters rather than the allure of Olympic fame. Despite efforts by organizers to adapt plans to preserve the local environment, maintaining the essence of the village of Teahupo’o proves to be a daunting task for the residents.
The initial proposal for the Olympic site, which included new infrastructure such as roads, housing units, and an aluminum judging tower necessitating drilling into the reef, sparked significant local opposition. Environmental and surf communities united to safeguard Teahupo’o’s culture, its coral reefs, and marine biodiversity.
Levy, also a member of the local environmental group Vai Ara O Teahupo’o, remarked, “It was overwhelming for us, a drastic change. And all this, just for a week of competition.”
Despite its acclaim in the surfing realm, Teahupo’o notably lacks a single surf shop, diverging from the typical development seen in popular surf destinations. At the village’s end lies the sole snack bar, open only for lunch, offering freshly caught fish. Children spend their afternoons surfing while families observe from the black sand beaches. At night, the distant rumble of waves crashing onto the reef serenades the town to sleep.
“We cherished this place for its rawness, its sparse population. The waters teemed with fish, and that sacred mana,” Levy expressed.
In response to the backlash, the Olympic housing will now primarily utilize local homes, with athletes accommodated on a nearby cruise ship. The size of the judging tower has been reduced, and revised infrastructure plans aim to minimize the necessity for new construction.
However, concerns linger: Environmentalists and local fishermen worry that drilling into the coral reef could attract ciguatera, a microalgae that contaminates fish and poses health risks when consumed, a significant source of sustenance for many residents.
Mormon Maitei, a 22-year-old spearfisher, sustains his family by fishing in the lagoons, emphasizing, “The lagoon is our refrigerator, it’s where we get our dinner from.”
Islanders also fear that altering the reef could impact the coveted wave formation, potentially diminishing the quality of the waves.
“If the reef fractures and collapses, the waves here will vanish, ending it for us,” Levy cautioned.
In December, local apprehensions materialized when a barge damaged sections of coral en route to the construction site on the reef, sparking outrage on social media.
Cindy Otcenasek, president of Via Ara o Teahupo’o, condemned the destruction as deeply distressing, highlighting the significance of coral in Polynesian culture. “The ocean is deemed the most sacred temple, with gods believed to inhabit the coral and the waters,” she explained.
Olympic organizers expressed regret over the incident, acknowledging the special bond Tahitians hold with nature and their lands.
Barbara Martins-Nio, a senior event manager for the Paris 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games Organization Committee, acknowledged the improved communication with local groups and the commitment to transparency in construction efforts.
Despite the apprehensions, some locals view the Games as an opportunity. Many residents support the economic prospects and international recognition the Games could bring to their corner of French Polynesia.
Gregory Parker, a Teahupo’o native, typically starts his day watching the waves from his beachfront bungalow while smoking a cigarette. However, during the Games, he plans to rent out his property for additional income, as his family does during the annual World Surf League competition.
“I will try to reside at my daughter’s house during the Games. If she also rents out her house, I have a tent,” Parker shared. “It’s manageable for two weeks, considering the earnings.”
In January, local surfers, including 21-year-old Olympic competitor Kauli Vaast, embraced the waves, recognizing the significance of respecting nature in such sacred spaces.
“Magical occurrences transpire here, and one must exhibit reverence,” Vaast emphasized. “Respect is paramount in these environments where you encounter mother nature.”
With a legacy of mana that resonates deeply with the islanders, the community strives to safeguard their cherished Teahupo’o amidst the evolving landscape influenced by the upcoming Olympic Games.
“We often hear about the legacy and infrastructure left behind by the Olympic Games, but we already possess an ancestral heritage,” noted Otcenasek of Via Ara o Teahupo’o. “Teahupo’o embodies the essence of the divine before it signifies the realm of the Games.”