Rev. Candace McKibben
A few years ago, my close friends from seminary were making plans to visit Florida to explore the National Parks they had not yet seen. They aimed to visit during the winter months when the Florida heat is more bearable, especially considering that they had recently returned from a trip to Antarctica, a place known for its extreme cold.
This year, they finally made their way to Florida and generously invited my husband and me to join them for a portion of their journey. We decided to join them at the start of their trip, meeting up at an RV park in Miami. Our itinerary included a visit to Biscayne National Park, known for being 95% water, followed by the exploration of Dry Tortugas National Park, which is predominantly water at 99%, situated approximately 70 miles west of Key West. This park encompasses Fort Jefferson and seven keys collectively known as the Dry Tortugas. The Florida Keys, spanning 180 miles from Biscayne Bay to Dry Tortugas National Park, consist of over 800 keys.
It was a delightful experience to reunite with these dear friends from Richmond, Virginia, and to catch up on each other’s lives. Research on friendships may be limited, but studies suggest that friendships play a crucial role during adolescence and as we grow older. While friendships can withstand periods of neglect, I’ve come to realize that they become even more precious with a little nurturing. During our time together last week, I often found myself embracing one of these long-time friends, filled with gratitude for their companionship.
Exploring Florida as a Tourist
I am also thankful to my friends from Virginia for introducing my husband and me to the wonders of our home state, Florida. Despite being natives of Florida and residing here for most of our lives, we had never ventured to these particular destinations, and the experience was truly remarkable.
Our journey included a boat excursion to Biscayne National Park, organized by the Biscayne National Park Institute, a nonprofit organization authorized by the park. Our captain, hailing from California, was knowledgeable about the park’s history and shared fascinating insights during the trip. From Captain Mo, I learned about the distinction between an island and a key, discovered that Soldier Key is the first true Florida key (contrary to my assumption that it was Key Largo), and heard about Stiltsville—a collection of vibrant wooden houses on stilts located a mile offshore in Biscayne Bay.
Preserving Stiltsville’s Legacy
The first stilt house in Stiltsville was constructed in the early 1930s, and over the years, the number of stilt house structures fluctuated. However, after enduring Hurricanes Betsy in 1965 and Andrew in 1992, only seven structures remained standing. In 1999, there were discussions about dismantling the remaining buildings.
In response, a petition was initiated by those who cherished the unique offshore village, garnering support from 75,000 individuals to preserve Stiltsville. As a result, the National Park Service reversed its decision, leading to the establishment of the nonprofit Stiltsville Trust, which works towards the restoration and safeguarding of the remaining structures, allowing some of the houses to be rented for short periods.
Featured in various forms of media, Stiltsville serves as an introduction for many to Biscayne National Park. Dr. Paul George, a historian at the Historical Museum of Southern Florida, emphasized the significance of preserving these buildings, stating, “It really is an only-in-Miami kind of thing. It had an aura, a rascally mischievous past. But it was also just a place people could go to enjoy getting away. It would be a terrible loss.”
Delving into Florida’s History at Elliot Key
Following our visit to Stiltsville, we proceeded to Elliot Key, where Captain Mo enlightened us about the island’s rich history, which has been home to transient communities of pioneers for nearly 10,000 years. These communities include the Tequesta Indians, their ancestors, and the Sweety family—an English-Bahamian farming family with connections to piracy and other endeavors.
Over the years, these groups engaged in activities such as pineapple and key lime farming, sponging, harvesting sea turtles and manatees, wrecking, and more. In the 1950s, there was a proposal to construct a causeway linking Elliot Key and Key Largo to Biscayne Key, aiming to create a luxurious retreat for the affluent.
Despite initial efforts to pave a highway along the key, known today as the “Spite Road hike,” conservationists triumphed. In 1968, President Johnson signed a bill to safeguard the unique blend of terrestrial, marine, and amphibious life in a tropical setting of exceptional natural beauty, thus protecting Elliot Key and the rest of Biscayne Bay as a National Monument. Subsequently, in 1980, it was designated as a National Park.
Our day included exploring two snorkeling sites teeming with vibrant marine life and a visit to Key Boca Chita, featuring a picturesque lighthouse, chapel, and stunning shorelines, culminating in a perfect day and a restful night.
Key West and the Enchantment of Dry Tortugas
The following day, we ventured to Key West for sightseeing and relaxation in preparation for our expedition to Dry Tortugas National Park. In contrast to the small group of six passengers on the Wednesday tour, our Friday adventure included 200 individuals sailing out of downtown Key West.
The journey was pleasant, with an informative tour guide, accommodating crew, and breathtaking ocean views. Standing at the bow of the ship, I recalled a fascinating program on NPR discussing the therapeutic benefits of being in proximity to vast bodies of water.
Embracing the Healing Power of ‘Blue Space’
Researcher and wellness practitioner, Catherine Kelly, coined the term “blue space,” emphasizing the meditative quality of the sea. Whether observing the water from the shore or immersing oneself in it, the sea has a calming effect. This was evident during our three-hour boat ride to Dry Tortugas and our snorkeling excursion around the seawalls of Fort Jefferson.
The fort itself was a remarkable feat, occupying the entire 16 acres of Garden Key on which it stands. Construction commenced in 1846 and spanned nearly three decades, although the fort was never fully finished or manned.
We discovered that the diverse colors of the 16 million bricks used in the fort’s construction indicate their origins, including Florida (predominantly), Alabama, Louisiana, and post-Civil War, the dark red bricks from Maine. The fort’s imposing structure served as a powerful symbol, warning potential adversaries not to challenge the United States.
The return journey to Key West, with the aquamarine waters shimmering under the setting sun, was a spectacle of unparalleled beauty. It felt restorative, comforting, and even days later, I remain profoundly grateful for the time spent with friends, exploring new facets of my home state, marveling at the earth’s beauty, and having a supportive community to return to.
In a world filled with uncertainties and unrest, it is essential to prioritize connections with loved ones, immerse ourselves in nature, and engage in activities that nurture our well-being. As spring unfolds in its full splendor in Tallahassee, let us make time to embrace experiences that replenish our souls.
Rev. Candace McKibben, an ordained minister, serves as the pastor of Tallahassee Fellowship.