In 1983, as a teenager enrolled in a liberal arts program at the University of Toronto, I made the decision to leave Canada and pursue my studies in France. Being the first in my family to pursue higher education, I felt a sense of privilege but lacked a clear sense of purpose in my academic pursuits. The desire to explore beyond familiar horizons tugged at me.
The turning point came when I stumbled upon a flyer at Hart House advertising the “Third Year Study Elsewhere Program – Wine and Cheese – Everyone Welcome!” Intrigued by the prospect of venturing into the unknown, I decided to forgo my classes and attend the meeting.
Amidst glasses of Bordeaux and unfamiliar cheeses like brie and Roquefort, an elderly French professor painted a vivid picture of the wonders awaiting us in Aix-en-Provence, a medieval town that promised a treasure trove of French delights—from culinary experiences to the possibility of romance. Enthralled by the allure of the unknown, I was captivated and signed up for the program.
After a year of working multiple part-time jobs to fund my journey, I found myself on a flight to France with a dozen other eager students. However, upon arrival in Aix-en-Provence—exhausted, disoriented, and nursing a Champagne-induced hangover—I was engulfed by a wave of uncertainty and doubt. Lost luggage and a language barrier added to my sense of unease.
Boarding a bus from Marseille to Aix, I vividly recall the moment I stepped off and encountered the grandeur of La Rotonde, the main fountain, and the serene ambiance of the Cours Mirabeau—a boulevard lined with charming shops, cafes, and ornate fountains shaded by sprawling plane trees. The beauty of the town left me in awe, realizing that I would call this place home for the coming year.
A search for accommodation led me to a room north of Aix’s cathedral, offering a view of Mont Sainte-Victoire, immortalized by Cézanne. Despite the unconventional layout that required passing through the owner’s daughter’s room to access mine, the picturesque view and the freedom to make the space my own won me over.
My landlady, a vibrant Frenchwoman of Armenian descent, quickly became a cherished companion. Our afternoons under the cherry tree in the front yard, savoring coffee and engaging in heartfelt conversations, revealed her rich life experiences as a seamstress in 1950s Marseille and her Armenian heritage, including poignant stories of the genocide.
Unbeknownst to me, my landlady’s husband, a nurse and a gambler, was unaware of my presence initially. A comical yet tense encounter in the dead of night brought our cohabitation to light, leading to a dramatic confrontation that eventually ended in my favor, securing my place in their home.
As our bond deepened, her husband, proud of his French-Greek heritage, shared his love for the region’s history, literature, and culinary traditions. Together, we explored the local culture, from boules matches to sipping pastis in neighborhood bars, immersing me in a world of flavors and stories that expanded my horizons.
Under my landlady’s guidance, I delved into the art of French cuisine, mastering the preparation of traditional dishes like duck confit, cassoulet, and sugared crêpes. Our culinary adventures, from foraging chanterelles to roasting rabbits for picnics, introduced me to the essence of Provençal cooking and the joy of shared meals filled with laughter and lively debates.
Beyond the academic pursuits and social escapades, my transformative year in Aix-en-Provence instilled in me a profound appreciation for cultural exchange and human connection. The genuine conversations, the culinary discoveries, and the warmth of my hosts’ home left an indelible mark on my life, shaping me into a bilingual individual with a broader worldview.
Decades later, as I revisited Aix-en-Provence with my own children, I reunited with my widowed landlady under the familiar cherry tree, reminiscing about the past over Armenian coffee. Despite the passage of time and the grip of fading memories, our reunion was a poignant reminder of the enduring impact of our shared experiences. I expressed my heartfelt gratitude for the invaluable education in life and culture that she had bestowed upon me—a gift that transcends time and distance.