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Exploring Life by the River: A Boy’s Pursuit of Knowledge and Joy

The riverboat captain, known for his storytelling prowess, Captain Don Sanders, shares his tales of the river, spanning from its discovery to becoming a way of life and love. This narrative is a segment of an ongoing and extensive story that made its debut in 2019. By Capt. Don Sanders Special to NKyTribune

The PAL-O-MINE found its home base at the Newport Yacht Club, situated on the Kentucky side of the Ohio River upstream from the Mouth of the Licking River, directly across the Cincinnati Public Landing. This was during a period when Newport was shedding its notorious past associated with gambling and prostitution, transitioning towards reformation. Despite the club’s notoriety, my father once cautioned me while we drove across the Central Bridge, passing by the club with its name emblazoned in bright red neon letters on the exterior of the massive wooden harbor boat:

“Let no one know you know where that place is…!”

A familiar sight was the PAL-O-MINE docked at the Newport Yacht Club.

Against my father’s admonition, I immediately felt a sense of belonging the first time I crossed the swaying gangway onto the harbor boat. The air was thick with the scents of stale beer, hemp rope, open bilges, and remnants of greasy steaks long since devoured.

While Walter typically oversaw the PAL’s departures and landings, he preferred to socialize with his guests during the cruise, entrusting the steering responsibilities to Lorraine’s nephew, “Swope,” a lad just slightly older than myself. Observing Swope at the helm, I aspired to master the art of piloting the PAL-O-MINE like him. Surprisingly, Swope willingly imparted his knowledge, and over the following summers, I gained increasing experience at the wheel as Swope gradually faded into the background.

A profound lesson I gleaned from Walt Hoffmeier was that my willingness to assist him with his boat translated into valuable teachings on vessel maintenance and the intricacies of navigating the river. Unbeknownst to me, Walt’s mentorship would shape my future endeavors; a transfer of knowledge spanning generations facilitated by an unassuming riverman.

Walt graciously extended invitations to my family for weekend excursions aboard the PAL-O-MINE for three consecutive seasons. As my brothers and I grew accustomed to river life, our parents took notice. Houseboating emerged as a wholesome family pastime, prompting my parents to acquire a boat of our own, culminating in the acquisition of a charming thirty-eight-foot paddlewheeler named the SHANGRI LA. This vessel was transported to the Cincinnati Public Landing from the Great Miami River near Hamilton, Ohio, where it was rechristened by my parents as the MARJESS.

While Walter typically managed the PAL during docking and departures, he opted to mingle with guests during the cruise.

Could a young boy’s existence be more idyllic?

By the end of the school term that spring, the MARJESS was serenely moored at the Covington Boat Club, nestled beneath the shadow of the Suspension Bridge. My mother promptly transformed the MARJESS into a cozy retreat, showcasing her culinary skills using a modest electric hot plate for meal preparations. In an era devoid of widespread air-conditioning, we slumbered under woolen blankets on balmy nights while those ashore sweltered in the heat.

The river offered an array of recreational pursuits. The introduction of Dr. Jonas Salk’s polio vaccine that year rendered swimming a safer pastime. While we dabbled in fishing, our amusement often stemmed from target practice with a BB-gun aimed at drifting bottles.

Similar to my experiences with Walt Hoffmeier, I seized an opportunity to assist another individual with their nautical tasks—this time under the guidance of the boat club’s “harbormaster,” Tex. A seasoned steamboatman residing in an authentic shantyboat embellished with various river artifacts, Tex initiated me into the fundamentals of boating, catalyzing my transition from casual involvement to a lifelong passion.

My siblings and I were evolving into seasoned river aficionados, a fact not lost on our parents.

“Let me show you how to secure a headline to a post,” Tex instructed during my initial lesson. Demonstrating the technique, Tex guided me through the process of looping the “line” around the dock posts, emphasizing the importance of securing the line effectively—a skill intrinsic to seasoned rivermen yet foreign to many pleasure boaters.

Later that summer, upon my return to the Covington Boat Harbor, I discovered Tex’s shantyboat and its contents had vanished from the harbor’s end. Tex, along with his family, had embarked on a downstream journey. In Tex’s absence, an aged river veteran known as “Mac” assumed his duties. While I assisted Mac with occasional tasks, my father seemed inclined to limit my interactions with the weathered boatman. Nevertheless, this arrangement afforded me more time aboard the MARJESS and at home, where my brothers and I had recently, on May 19th, 1955, ventured into the forbidden waters of the nearby Licking River, transforming it into our playground in our parents’ absence.

Subsequently, May 19th became synonymous with Camp Day, heralding the onset of yet another summer replete with carefree days along the Licking River, characterized by swimming, rafting on “blue logs,” cliff diving, roasting stolen potatoes over open flames, and a medley of other mischievous exploits concocted by us youthful adventurers.

The paddlewheeler, christened the SHANGRI LA, was transported to the Cincinnati Public Landing by my parents.

After two seasons at the Covington Boat Harbor, the MARJESS navigated downstream to a new marina below the C&O Bridge, adjacent to a burgeoning harbor established by our acquaintance, Walter Hoffmeier, christened “Walt’s Boat Club.” This transition marked the genesis of a fresh chapter brimming with river escapades. As I matured, my discerning parents granted me greater autonomy to assist and learn from Walter. Tragically, Walt’s passing in December 1959 coincided with my departure from Covington for college.

In retrospect, the profound impact of my formative years with Walt resonated deeply: “Walter Hoffmeier profoundly influenced a youngster who had yet to excel in any particular pursuit until encountering the slender, no-nonsense mentor who imparted carpentry, painting, and rivercraft skills. Above all, he instilled in a young boy the values expected of a man committed to his craft, despite the modest compensation of a shared supper and the privilege of laboring on the river in all weather conditions and water levels.”

The subsequent summer saw me serving as a deckhand on the excursion steamer AVALON, where I attracted the attention of Captain Ernest E. Wagner, who furthered the educational groundwork laid by Walt. A pivotal moment in my river journey unfolded in mid-1972, when Captain Wagner accompanied me to the U.S. Coast Guard office in Cincinnati, where I formalized my enrollment as the Alternate Master of the DELTA QUEEN alongside Captain Wagner.

Thus commenced my illustrious river career, a fulfilling odyssey that commenced right at my doorstep!

Captain Don Sanders, a seasoned riverman, boasts a rich maritime background, having served as a riverboat captain with the Delta Queen Steamboat Company and Rising Star Casino. His diverse repertoire includes piloting aircraft before mastering land vehicles, eventually attaining the rank of captain in the USAF. An intrepid explorer, historian, and raconteur, he now graces the pages of NKyTribune as a columnist, regaling readers with tales from his Covington upbringing and river exploits. Brace yourself for an unforgettable voyage—where the river’s allure shines brighter than ever.

Authentic shantyboat, Cov Boat.. Tex’s authentic shantyboat…that lay tied at the end of the harbor next to our paddlewheeler.

Mother’s “cookstove” was an electric, two-burner hot plate, but the meals that came off that primitive stove were as sumptuous as any she fixed at home.

Our acquaintance, Walter Hoffmeier, embarked on a new venture with his eponymous harbor, “Walt’s Boat Club.”

During my tenure on the excursion steamer AVALON, I swiftly captured the attention of Captain Ernest E. Wagner, who nurtured the foundation laid by Walt.

Accompanied by Captain Wagner, I formalized my enrollment as the Alternate Master of the DELTA QUEEN at the U.S. Coast Guard office in Cincinnati.

• • • • •

Immerse yourself in Captain Don Sanders’ river chronicles—available in his book.

Capt. Don Sanders The River: River Rat to steamboatman, riding ‘magic river spell’ to 65-year adventure is now on sale for $29.95 plus handling and applicable taxes. This exquisite hardback publication, brought to you by NKyTribune, spans 264 pages of captivating narratives complemented by a myriad of images from Capt. Don’s personal collection—showcasing his meticulous documentation, unparalleled storytelling, and keen eye for detail. This historically significant tome is a must-have for avid river enthusiasts.

Secure your copy by mail through the Northern Kentucky Tribune or browse for it at all Roebling Books outlets, the Behringer Crawford Museum, and the St. Elizabeth Healthcare gift shops.